BAJO - Affirm Dignity, Expose Depravity, Provoke Longing
Welcome to BAJO at Kinzi’s! I will be using my tag-line as a frame to Blog About Jordan.
I, as an ex-pat female, American Christian, love living in Jordan. To some that would seem a few too many minority adjectives to truly work, but for me it does. What do I love? Passionate people who care deeply about injustice. Strongly connected families who gather for Friday meals with conversations that ebb and flow like clockwork. Driving a little too fast down the winding avenue from Rainbow St. to the Balad. Mansaf at Al Quds, Msukkhan at Ammon Chicken, Kanafeh from Habeebeh (right?). The sights and smells of the souk downtown. Shopping at Al Afghani in the balad, not at Mecca Mall.
The stark beauty of the desert, of northern scrub-oak forests, the angelfish darting in Red Sea reefs, the stars from Wadi Dana’s tents, breathing in Petra dust as you haul yourself back up from the Treasury after a day of adventuring. Can’t forget the chance to drive like something out of Need for Speed Carbon and learn just how many centimeters you get for a sudden brake while driving at 90kph. Exhilarating!
Amman is a living entity: breathing, pulsating, growing, tripping up, regrouping and trying again. The greatest thrill of living here is watching this country carve out it’s world niche between extremely diverse points of view. Creating an identity with part ancient heritage, part foreign import. In one home, you can have a tattooed-teta in a handworked thobe and her jet-setting, multi-nationally employed grandson drink mint tea together while watching the news. Two completely faces of Jordan, two generations between them, living out the dignity of their forefathers in two different realms. Sometimes the two realms mesh well, sometimes they collide.
Sometimes watching ancient and current cultural values clash is a scary thing. My greatest heartbreak here is for victims of abuse, who have experienced depravity personally. Women who had something very precious stolen from them by someone they trusted; crushed by the weight of responsibility of protecting their family honor. The secret never stays silent, but screams from within for disclosure, justice, apology and acknowledgement. Yet, if even a bit slips out, the hope of ever having a life of cultural validation and value can be erased with word. The secret eats away at young hearts, accusing and creating a false reality that becomes like solitary confinement. She carries the weight of crime alone, and lives in craven fear that she may just tire of silencing the inner scream, tell the wrong person, and live out her nightmare of being alone for life.
I long for the day when honor is defined not by female blood on wedding day sheets, nor can be cleansed only by the spilt blood of the dishonorable woman. I long for the day when men of honor will take the dignity of that weight upon themselves by changing laws and traditions that protect shame-killers and sentence the victim to death or a lifetime without living. I long for the day when honor is defined by strength of character, courage to confront accepted evils and the protection and empowerment of the weak. When brothers will stand by sisters, allowing them to bloom out from underneath the weight of honor.
I believe that day is on it’s way, and Jordan’s best is yet to come. And I believe Jordan’s male blogging community will usher that day into Jordan’s tomorrow.
March 12, 2008 at 7:37 am
Amazing Kinzi, that was an emotional rollercoaster! You tricked me and got me so high on emotions in the first part, only to let me dive into the abyss of ugly issues that are plaguing the Jordanian society and continue to do so… But mark my words, their days are numbered
I’m honored that you took it upon your self to dissolve into the mesh of this society, you’re not a foreigner, you’re one of us..
March 12, 2008 at 7:54 am
Hi, I found your blog through Black Iris. As someone who used to live in JO, I really enjoy reading your blog — what’s going on with your family, as well as social and cultural issues. And I love the fact that you appreciate the REAL Amman, not the westernized version of it.
Keep blogging, and keep the faith. Many of us are praying for these nameless women who are victims of hate-crimes.
March 12, 2008 at 7:56 am
Couldn’t be ANY better said. Im just at loss of speach. I too, seem to have had an emotional rollercoaster.
March 12, 2008 at 8:02 am
Nice article.
I really liked that you covered both the greatness of Jordan as well as its problems. I think it is crucial that we don’t trick ourselves into painting rosy pictures and neglecting what is happening on the ground.
Step-by-step, by raising awareness and working towards a solution; the day you, and all of us, seek will be on its way.
March 12, 2008 at 8:16 am
Why do you say Jordan’s ‘male’ blogging community in particular? Why male? Curious.
March 12, 2008 at 10:03 am
if you care for arab women so much and if you want to fight depravity you should be spending your time taking the US and Jewish military to court for violent crimes against tens of thousands of arab women. not to mention the mass impoverishment of millions more in iraq, palestine, lebanon, somalia.
March 12, 2008 at 10:18 am
yabayeeeeeeeeeeeee Kinzi, Maioush is out of words!! seriously!!! couldn’t say it any better!!
P.S: the mai above is not me!!
March 12, 2008 at 10:22 am
Kinzi, allow me
Mai, this is not about Iraq, Gaza, Somalia or anywhere else in the world that has issues. This is a specific article about a specific location in the world. We can go ahead and write volumes about everywhere else in the world but does this mean we are solving any of the problems?
Additionally, Kinzi, is NOT George Bush! She didn’t go out of her way to put people in harms way, she’s just like everyone else, caring for the well being of other humans and women in particular in a specific local.
Other than all of the above, this is also not about the US, or how they run their business! This is about a very specific topic. Nothing more.
March 12, 2008 at 10:24 am
Hal:
Because if we can instigate change in our immediate environment, we might be able to help the whole society get somewhere. Be the example for everyone else. That was my interpretation, and I feel it’s a huge burden, but, it’s an honor and a duty that we should shoulder
March 12, 2008 at 10:43 am
Qwaider, wow, thanks for the good words and MOST of all for “being one of you”. It is an honor, and I there is a part of me now that is Urdani and will not feel completely at home elsewhere.
and YES, I believe you are one of those men. Fight for us!
It wasn’t my conscious intention to take you all on a ride, but it does seem to be the ride I am on, so I appreciate you all joining! I’m kind of an emotional person, and in the middle of dark emotions with others this week.
Sharon, ahlayn!!! Great to have another minority mom like me who left a piece of her heart behind in Amman. Your kids are darling, and I look forward to future conversations. Please do pray for these women, especially those who are in the middle of the hardest part of the healing process on this very day.
Batoul, habeebti, I find myself wanting to give you a hug! find your voice soon, as I desire to listen from your perspective.
Za3tar, thank you. I struggled in deciding what to write, as I try and find a balance between the three goals of my blog. It is easier to stay in the affirming of dignity, but I knew many would do a better job than I. So I went with my heart, which is full of desire to see Jordan operating in her greatest assets with her natural strengths.
Hal, I have come to a conclusion after watching the honor/gender battle rage, that we women have an important place in making change. In the long run, we will influence coming generations. But in the ’short’ run, until the men with the power implement and legislate change, things will not be different for our daughters. In a troubled marriage, 95% of the time it is the wife who seeks help, but if the husband doesn’t make the change, what can she do?
That said, this conclusion isn’t set in stone, and I’d love to hear your input! I think another danger is when men in power circle the wagons around their structure when we speak out: they perceive we are connected to a Western feminism rather than a grass-roots movement.
Mai, if I were a lawyer and could benefit the cause in courts of law, I may have very well been there. But since I am just a mom with passion and a blog, I attempt to impact within my limited sphere of influence. I am a one-on-one person, that is my position of strength. I am an insider to America Christians, who seem inexplicably connected to Zionism; you may be surprised if I blog about where this mommy-blogger has changed hearts and minds.
Mai, my question then, is where are you facilitating change? You go girl, be a catalyst for change in the realm you’ve been preparing for.
March 12, 2008 at 10:53 am
Maioush, heh-heh, I knew it wasn’t you! I checked the IP address to make sure, though. Glad you love it!! I see YOU as an agent of change, too
Qwaider, thanks for addressing the other Mai. Her response is actually an example of why some things are NOT changing: the problem seems to big to tackle. But it is like how you eat an elephant: one bite at a time. I hope Mai can find her elephant and dig on.
Another good point toward Hal. The burden is lessoned with the greater number that carry it. The more who work toward change in their place of strength and expertise will make the load lighter for all.
March 12, 2008 at 11:00 am
Kinzi, i think you are more Jordanian that most of us!! maybe i should not generalize, i should say, more than i am!! really nice post. You included the best of jordan, the good words about the people and the culture and you did not shy away from mentioning the “bad and the ugly” that will diminish in time hopefully!
March 12, 2008 at 11:57 am
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March 12, 2008 at 12:20 pm
Hey thats an excellent way to blind sight a reader, I <3 it !
though i feel you left out a little bit about whether you see that change going in a specific direction or just anarchist or even chaotic ?
March 12, 2008 at 12:41 pm
Qwider, you may wish to divide arab issues into regions and tribes and allies. but most of us think this is not possible. we see Jordan’s problems as inseparable from other arab problems. so this is about arab women and arab rights and arab future and the American role in killing thousands of them. keep trying but you will find yourself interacting with a tiny minority of Jordanians. already the jordanian blogosphere has serious limited readership. don’t make it worse.
March 12, 2008 at 12:58 pm
Beautiful! Thank you Kinzi for making Jordan feel this wonderful. It is full of wonder. We just rush in our lives without paying attention. Posts like this make us pose for a moment and feel the beauty of the life we are living.
Jordan is smiling today
March 12, 2008 at 1:22 pm
qwider, the Jordanian blogosphere is limited to a handful of readers already. if you try to narrow the selection of topics to suit some silly idea that we must ignore everything outside of jordan you will be one of few reading your blogs. jordanians like most arabs don’t see themselves as inseparable from other arab regions and problems. and jordan’s problems are never separate from what’s happening in iraq Lebanon and Palestine. enjoy reading your own blogs and enjoy congratulating yourselves about your ever shrinking readership.
March 12, 2008 at 2:26 pm
Summer, you are very kind :D. You make me want to know more about Lebanon. There is SO much good here, yet we can’t let it make us complacent in provoking change.
Sum3a, thanks for joining the discussion. It is true that Jordan’s problems ARE Arab problems; and many Arab problems are just plain human being problems. Rooted in greed, corruption, power, just like problems where Arabs are killing Arabs. So as I asked Mai, what are you doing to change the status quo? It is a real question of inquiry, not a snarky trick to keep you quiet.
The JO blogosphere is small, but four years ago it was practically non-existent. It may not last forever, but it is a tool to be used for today.
Observer, you are part of what makes it wonderful. Pause, reflect, and smile again!
Mai, shrinking readership? My stats show daily increasing readership from this region, and I would imagine the biggee-bloggers do as well.. Maybe we do spend too much time congratulating ourselves, though.
March 12, 2008 at 2:35 pm
Bam, I will bronze that comment :). hhhmmm….that is a good question! I even looked up ‘anarchist’ just to see if it fit. I think what I see is: by fits and starts, with a little chaos thrown in. Like a flustered lady whose car has stalled at the stop light on a winter day, and is trying it get it going while talking on her cell phone. Howzat?
March 12, 2008 at 3:35 pm
Kinz, indeed. You give with one hand and take with the other, teehee. Definitely a realistic post, the good, the bad, and the ugly. It’s just like the rest of life, thanks for sharing your perspective with me.
March 12, 2008 at 3:59 pm
Mashallah kinzi! jad you made me speechless with this post!
i was all smiles while reading it! thanks jd thanks!
March 12, 2008 at 4:52 pm
MommaBean, good thought; heh-heh, imagine what I would have come up with if I had had a plan and it wasn’t 11pm! Fun to share Jordan with you.
Still basking in Galler-phoria!
Maher, do-do-do-do, I was just reading YOUR blog post! It is great to see you smiling. Me too!!!
March 12, 2008 at 6:24 pm
Mai and Sum3a
That is not entirely accurate, there are thousands, even hundreds of thousands reading Jordanian blogosphere. I can provide you with detailed statistics if you like.. But that’s not really a point to make
The Jordanian blogosphere has been for as long as I can remember an integral part of the Arabic culture and have addressed and talked about every Arab issue you can think of. We stood in solidarity with Gaza, we talked about freedom of speech in Egypt and Saudi, we criticized the American intervention in Iraq, we condemned the Danish cartoons. We are not an Isolated nation, nor do we seek to be removed from our heritage that we are so proud of.
But today, is about Jordan’s wounds, it’s about our pains, it’s about our issues, it’s about what we are suffering from. It’s pointing where we screwed up and need to fix. It’s also celebrating the good things we’ve achieved.
The rest of the issues, are still going to be there in the morning, and we can tackle them to your heart content over the next 364 days, while we keep these 24 hours for Jordan.
March 12, 2008 at 7:25 pm
“I believe that day is on it’s way, and Jordan’s best is yet to come”
Amen to that Kinzi.
Great post indeed, and I agree with what the guys have said, you’re definitely one of us
March 12, 2008 at 7:54 pm
Wonderful use of words. Thank you for sharing the Jordanian experience with us.
March 12, 2008 at 10:42 pm
Would be really nice if this post is published in one of the great magazines in Jordan
I loved it Kinzi…Thanks for beautifying my jordan, your Jordan…and everybody’s!
I should ask my husband to blog about Jordan as well…His post will be waaaaaaaaay better than mine…and It just imprsesses me seeing how non Jordanians love Jordan more than many other Jordanians!
March 13, 2008 at 8:24 am
Great job. Very heart felt.
March 13, 2008 at 4:27 pm
kinzi after reading this, ma eli dakhal u have to do what u promised me before…
yr post is brilliant i can leave you a comment that is 2 times longer than yr post telling you how much, n what i loved about this post
March 13, 2008 at 11:09 pm
I read the last paragraph first (bad habit), and I was wondering why is Kinzi putting the burden only on the male bloggers, then I read the top part. I think the mom’s have as big a role to play. Although my dad is very nice, and never unkind, most dads don’t teach their kids to cuddle though. My mom taught me how to love, and I get all my kindness from her!
March 17, 2008 at 9:20 am
Qwaider, thanks for explaining in a way I can’t.
Diana, thanks for such a welcome. TRUE Jordanian-like!
Lulu, thanks for living it out for me to share!
Nido, heh-heh, maybe I will! Jordan is beautiful because of people like you. Jeej will attest to that!! I look forward to his viewpoint!
Manal, sweet shamsi, I’d love to hear that someday…we need to make a date !
Hani, I read posts backwards too! I think it is a natural thing, we learn different things from different parents. Choose your wife well, one that has those qualities to pass on. But for you, I think she’ll need to have a kind of ‘edge’, too, clever dry sense of humor too.
March 18, 2008 at 12:28 am
Loved this post Kinzi. For those who know Amman, your post must have made them nostalgic for it even if they are in the middle of it. And for those who don’t, I am sure you aroused their curiosity to come and savor this great town and wonderful country.
March 18, 2008 at 10:35 am
Tallouza, I bask in sharing the experience with you!! It made me stop and think, and give thanks to God, for this delightful and frustratign country!